How To Stop Dogs Jumping Up On People #121

One of the most common questions that we get 
isn't “Susan, what did you have for breakfast?”   Although it's right up there. It's Susan, “how 
do I get my dogs to stop jumping on people?” And   as common as it is, the fix is actually 
quite simple. It's three steps and trust me,   the third step is something nobody 
would have ever told you before.
  Hi, I'm Susan Garrett. Welcome to Shaped 
by Dog. Before we jump into how to get   her dogs to stop jumping on people, I think 
it's important that we understand the why.   Once you understand the why your dogs are jumping 
up, then you can decide which tactic are/is going   to work best for you and your dog.

Believe it 
or not the primary reason that dogs jump up   is because they're rewarded for jumping up.
And you know, you could say “Susan no. Oh you   got it wrong. I've never given my dog a cookie 
for jumping up.” Stick with me on this because   it started long before you ever got your 
dog. When puppies are young, they're little   and who doesn't like the smell of puppy 
breath. So, guess what? We sit on the floor,   we ‘coochie coo’, we encourage the puppies to 
come up and find our face and isn't this great.   And there's an old saying what you learn first, 
you learn best. So, puppies learn when you seek   human space good things happen you get all this 
love and attention and everything's amazing.
  And then guess what? They stop being little 
puppies and we start standing up and they're like,   “How do we get to that face? I've got to get to 
that face.” They do the only thing they know how   to do.

And that is to put the paws up to try 
to get to that face. Does it, it makes sense   right? So, knowing that the behavior is there 
partially because of human reinforcement.
  Now let's face it part of it is just 
canine curiosity. “Guess what there's   a big meatball on that counter. I'm going to 
put my paws up to see it a little better.”   So, your face, it could be the big meatball. 
No disrespect. Don't take it personal. But your   face could be that big meatball. You combine 
the meatball face curiosity with all of that   reinforcement they got as puppies. Is it any 
wonder that the default behavior for dogs is   put their paws up to seek the face?
Now, now that you know why you have   two decisions to fix it.

The one tactic that 
people will say is knee the dog in the chest,   tell them “Off, no”, give them a collar 
correction, let them know they're bad.   And some people will think that works, but 
it comes at a very deep cost. And I think   if you are watching my podcasts, that's 
not the life you want. That's not the kind   of relationship you want with your dog. You 
want to get solutions based out of kindness.   And so, knowing that what we've got is there 
because of a great history of reinforcement,   let's just create a new history 
of reinforcement and fix it.
  Three simple steps.

You’re 
with me? Step number one.   We’ve got to create the sit as a very high value 
default position. So, I’m going to assume that you   can get your dog to sit when you ask them on one 
cue in any environment and they will stay there   until you give them their release cue. I use the 
word “break”, you might say “okay” or “free”.
  If you don’t have that sit when I asked and 
release when I asked and you’d like to know more   about how I achieved that, jump over to YouTube, 
leave me a comment on this video and we'll plan   to make it part of an upcoming video.
So, step one, it's all about the sit.   We want our dogs to sit beside us.

What I 
call Reinforcement Zone. Not out in front,   beside us. And if that's a problem for you, 
what you might want to do is visit my video   called Perch Work (Pivots and Spins), because that 
gives your dog a target for their front feet. So,   they learn to hang out right beside you.
This is really important. Everything happens in   front. So, if your dog is already facing you, they 
have to redirect to what's happening out there.   So, we got to get the dog to sit beside us on one 
cue. Now, when I say one cue, how many times does   that allow you to repeat the cue? Yeah, it's a 
little test. Little test in middle of all this.
  That would be zero. The dog sits on one cue. 
And if they don't sit reliably on one cue,   they're giving you feedback on your training. 
They're saying “What you think you taught isn't   what I actually learned.

So maybe I'm not 
picking up what you're putting down. You've   got to do it a different way.” Or in this case, 
“I'm not picking up what you're sitting.” That   didn't make sense, but you know what I mean.
So, one cue and one cue only. We get our dog   value build in Reinforcement Zone. If you're 
going to give your dog a treat around the house,   ask them to get in Reinforcement Zone, give 
them the treat there then release them, sit   and release. This is the habit we want to create 
a default, anything good that happens in the dog's   world they need to sit and then release.
Once you've got that brilliantly now what I   want you to do is we're going to put your dog on a 
leash. So, you can start with a short leash, and I   would recommend maybe you put the dog on a harness 
to do this rather than to put them on a collar.   This is called the wandering sit stage.
So, as you're out and about with your dog on   leash, you are going to randomly say “sit” and get 
that same snappy behavior where the dog just plops   their butt down, you will then move forward 
to meet the dog in Reinforcement Zone before   you give them a cookie and then the release. 
The wandering sit.

Here's your assignment.   25 wandering sits a day for seven days.
You can do that while building in   part two of the assignment, but I'm getting ahead 
of myself. We've got our wandering sit and once   that's brilliant, you're going to add part one 
and part two of your sit homework. And that is   ask the dog to sit beside you in Reinforcement 
Zone, give them the release word “break”,   which means move out of position. And 
once they move, ask for another sit.
  So, it's going to be sit, release, sit, 
and then you come up and reinforce that   and that's the end of that game.

So, three parts 
of your sit homework. Lots of fun. It's just a   game. It's all about rewarding your dog.
And remember if they don't get it right,   don't go and help them. Go back to where you 
lost them and build up from there. It's not   about you helping them to get this right. It's 
about them understanding and seeing great value.   This is all about a value build at every stage. 
They see great value for doing what we're asking   and they're going to do it immediately.
Step number two, learning to greet.   Now, if you remember here on Shaped by Dog, I 
talked about the invisible bubble of pressure.   And what that is, is for some dogs they're 
sensitive about people coming into their zone   and they will react in a way that shows it. Maybe 
they will back away. Maybe they will jump up in an   anxious kind of frenetic energy. Whatever it is we 
want to test what your dog's natural response is   to people coming near them.

pexels photo 5749804

We're going to do 
this in a way that the dog can be successful.
  So, number one, if you've played Crate Games, 
that's a great way. Our dogs understand the   criteria. The crate doors open, and I just 
hang in there until I get a release. So,   the first thing we're going to do is you're going 
to be beside the crate, somebody's going to walk   up to your dog, and you're going to feed the dog 
and see what their reaction is. Do they start   wiggling? Do they start paddling their paws?
So, you're going to go “Well hmm. They started   paddling the paws when the person got about 
six feet away. Let's start reinforcing them   about seven feet away.” So that the rehearsal of 
the paddling the paws when the person comes near   starts to go away. Your dog understands you're 
there to give them reinforcement. You're there   to be their big protector and defender so 
there's no need for them to get anxious.
  So, number one, can we do it in a crate? 
Number two, can we do it in a Hot Zone?   If you're not familiar with Hot Zone training, 
I'll leave a link right here on this video where   you can click on the puppy games and learn 
about how we start the Hot Zone training.   It's something like this.

Pardon the pun, my 
puppy This! is lying on a raised surface. She   understands she doesn't leave there. When people 
come to greet her there, she can sit, she can   down, she can stand. There is no criteria for her 
other than no paws come off of the Hot Zone. So,   it gives the dog the opportunity to learn about 
greeting people without putting their feet up.
  If they make a mistake and they come up off 
the person greeting before the paws come   up to touch them, they just take 
a step away and turn their back.   Taking out the reinforcement of number one, 
attention, stepping away from the Hot Zone so the   dog can't touch them. No reinforcement to be had. 
And you take a mental note, ‘let's do this again   and I'm going to reward my dog for making good 
choices’. Value build on the greeting behavior.
  Now we're going to add number one to number two. 
Your dog's going to be in the Reinforcement Zone   on a leash. You are going to have somebody you 
know come close and stand in front and talk to   you.

Two seconds. “Hi Susan, how's it going?” 
You're going to feed your puppy because ideally,   they're not paddling or getting excited. 
If they are just put a perch down to give   them a target for those feet. See how it all 
comes together. Value build, value build.
  Next, the person's going to come in and talk to 
you and then say hi to your dog. All goes well,   you're going to feed. Make sure you are not using 
the food to prevent the dog from making a mistake.   This is about trying to evaluate 
what your dog is understanding.   Do you understand when you're in Reinforcement 
Zone that you need to stay there. Once that's   brilliant now we're going to go to the third 
step of the greet. And this is the biggie.
  Now we're ready for the most important stage. And 
this is one that I have never seen anybody do. And   it's the one that helps drive these lessons home. 
And its stage number three, it's the re-greet.   Here's what happens.

What a dog rehearses they 
get really good at. And so, what we want to do   is have that person maybe stop six feet away from 
your dog or two meters. And you are going to take   your dog on a leash and you're going to say “go 
see” which means nothing to the dog right now.
  You're going to say, “go see” follow it by the 
word “break”. And as the dog comes into the   stranger or the person you know you're going 
to say “sit”. So, the dog may or may not sit,   but before they get a chance to respond you're 
going to call them back. Call them right back,   give them a cookie and do it again.
They got a chance to come close but not jump up.   And now you are going to bring them back.

So, it's 
let them go see, call them back, let them go see,   call them back. Eventually you're going to let 
them go see, and you're going to ask them to sit,   and the person can talk to them. They can pat 
them. They can eventually get to that level.
  When I take my puppy out to meet people 
the first go see she may make a mistake and   start to put her paws up and I'll just call 
her back before she gets a chance to do it.   It might take at first 10 go sees, the last three 
are good ones.

But very quickly it might be,   I'll do five go sees. And I get the last three 
are good ones and only two that aren't great.   And very quickly they're all great. So, 
it's the re-greet of the same person.
  If you were to do 100 greeting of people, just one 
time greeting, you would not get near the success   of doing just 10 people but doing 10 re-greets. 
And by the way, who's got a hundred people   randomly hanging around their house.

If you have 
two people, you could just do as many as it takes   to get three good ones where your dog comes in 
and sits— three in a row, three in a row. The   dog comes in and sits, gets greeted. The person 
greeting could even give your dog a cookie. If you   get to that stage and then you call them back.
So, it's the greet and re-greet that teaches the   dog the value of this is a best way to greet 
people. Good things happen when you greet   this way. It’s nowhere near as fun as putting 
your paws up on a human. Listen, as I said it's   simple and it's easy.

It just requires you 
making the time in your life to play a game   with your dog. It's an investment in having a 
dog who has an amazing future at greeting people.   And who wouldn't want that for their dogs.
I'll see you next time here on Shaped by Dog..

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