Puppy Training session – Eye contact and Errorless Restraint

hi everyone i thought i would share with you 
another training session with my little pup here   i'm planning on naming him dream i'm trying 
out the name today and see if it sticks and   then i will uh you know decide so sometimes i 
when i pick a puppy's name i think the name is   really cool but then i just when i try to say it 
i just i just can't so dream so far is working so   that might be the name i thought about calling 
him easy because he's so easy and it's a cute   name but it just doesn't suit his personality 
anyway the exercises that i wanted to work on   the first one that we're going to work on is the 
attention noise now when i got him he naturally   gazes up at faces so i've taken it for granted 
so i just have to make sure to continue to   reinforce it so it doesn't disappear so i've 
got some really high value treats so it might   be actually a little harder for him to look away 
from the treats because he's not had these before   so i'm going to make my kissy noise and click the 
moment that he looks up at my eyes and all these   exercises that i work on with him i'll link the 
video tutorials in the description below the other   thing i can do is wait and see if he offers eye 
contact like that and mark and reinforce good job so he's looking at my hands behind my back i like 
to keep my hands behind my back like this because   i find it's a little bit easier than when they're 
out at your side because puppies will generally   want to go to the hand to try and get the treat 
and then it can be a little bit confusing and   then you're starting to work on a leave it 
exercise more than an eye contact exercise   but he's really good at that okay so here we go i'm going to make the kissing noise now so 
i'm going to throw the treat away like that   make my kissing noise after he's done eating it   and i can click him for first turning in my 
direction and then offering eye contact he said i   would like to stare at your hand because it gives 
me more information than your eyeballs good job hi so the wonderful thing about eye contact is 
that if you had a puppy that was worried about   the environment or didn't know what to do in 
a certain situation you could ask your puppy   for attention or your adult dog and then you 
can blanket them and say hi everything's cool   you don't need to worry and then you can 
see the puppy can see how relaxed you are   rather or the adult dog i do this a lot with 
wish my other border collie who's five now she   can still be worried in a certain circumstance 
and then i just have to smile and blanket her   and tell her that it's cool and it doesn't matter 
and then she can relax because she trusts that i   know what's going on in the environment rather 
than her thinking that she has to take care   of herself so that's another great use for 
the attention noise is getting your dog to   look at your face also if they're looking at 
something scary and then you have a wonderful   trusting positive relationship with your dog 
then they look at you and they get a break from   looking at whatever or uh you know experiencing 
whatever it is that was creepy or worrisome to   them so i like to use that uh for behavior 
modification good job okay um another thing   is is that because i am a dog trainer it's really 
good for this puppy to learn uh that when i talk   it just means keep waiting and that i'm 
communicating in other ways even though   i'm going blah blah blah blah blah but if you're 
a very talkative person and you're out and about   talking to friends on a walk maybe you walk with 
other people you can also practice teaching your   dog that when you're talking it's reinforcing to 
do specific behaviors such as walk at your side or   relax calmly at your feet when talking is going 
on but here a little little dream is deciding that   sitting closer and closer to me in this 
situation is the best way to get the treat   hey pupsy okay so we worked a little bit on 
the attention noise and i'm just going to   start proofing it where i'm holding treats 
out to the side it's very a very common   behavior for proofing the attention noise and i'm 
holding them far enough away that it's easy if i   hold them like this the puppy's gonna find it hard 
to look away from the treats and up at my face   so if he doesn't think to look i 
can make an enticing noise like   good job and that was he seemed more like 
confused by the noise i was making then good awesome and then another thing you can do 
is after you get the dog looking at your face good job you can talk to the dog you're doing 
so good and try to increase that eye contact   hey pop-ups he said it's very hard with the treats good 
job it's very hard with the distractions pop-ups this one's hard for you so there that's too hard for him so i'll go 
back a step and just work on conditioning   the attention noise so i actually haven't as i 
told you worked on it maybe i worked on it uh   15 times the first day that i got him 
so that's why he could not do that   exercise but he can easily do it when i have 
my hands how they usually are or behind my back or not or not and these are also high value treats 
so all these different factors play into whether   you can increase criteria or not in a training 
session so just because i have the high value   treats means i can't get to that exercise of 
looking away from moving treats at my eyes and   also because we haven't worked on it enough so you 
might ask how do you get to the progression from   the treats being still to the treats being 
starting to move and that simply is is that   i need to condition the behavior more so there's 
a stimulus response association the dog hears   the noise and immediately looks at my eyes 
because it's been conditioned and reinforced   and also by slowly changing the picture to make 
it uh easier to go on to the next step so i would   work on this step longer where he's looking away 
from just my hands still like this and then i   might move them a little bit but not continuously 
move them up and down so just a tiny movement   good good job like that and then go to where i'm 
moving them a lot but then continually make it   easier for the puppy so now the hands are 
gone and it's not just getting harder and   harder where it can be frustrating if you're a 
little puppy trying to figure out what's going on   and the most reinforcing thing of course is to 
look at where the food is going to come from so   it's very counterintuitive so don't worry if 
your puppy gets a little confused or frustrated   it just it's just a matter of doing more training 
sessions and building that conditioned response   so the best place to work on new behaviors 
is in your house so that you can get a really   strong response if you're out and about and the 
puppy's distracted by the environment and isn't   really interested in your treats that's not 
going to build a strong response so with all   the really important behaviors i work on 
them inside the house first or in my yard   unless the puppy is finding whatever it 
is extremely reinforcing out and about   hey little one so i'm just throwing some treats 
like this because that game was super hard for him   and he's just getting used to chasing and 
eating the treats and he's not too excited   by it if i did this with little epic my 
chihuahua she might get way too excited   and then not be able to do the next training so 
the other game that i wanted to play with him   is the restraint so most trainers uh well i 
don't know anymore but when i started training   everybody did the restraint where you 
hold the dog like this was like 18 years   ago but i still see people doing this so 
basically what you do is you hold the dog   and then they struggle and struggle and then 
what they learn is by stopping struggling and   and just giving up that's when you let them go 
so that's based on something called extinction   where the dog tries what they usually do and then 
when they fail uh and they they try so hard and   it never works then they learn that the only way 
to get out of the grip is to uh just give up so   the problem with using extinction is that what 
can happen is the behavior can get more intense   so if your puppy was whining and barking they 
might start screaming if your puppy was mouthing   you they might start biting you harder and 
harder before they give up and then also it   extinction it doesn't just fix the problem uh 
the puppy needs or the adult dog would need to   have multiple sessions to generalize and like any 
type of behavior what can happen is the behaviors   can come back so not only is the mouthing and 
biting part going to come back but the more   intense behaviors could come back too like the 
screaming and the biting your arms harder than   than they thought to do before so i like to use an 
errorless learning type approach where you're just   reinforcing the puppy for being restrained 
like this and we've already worked on this   and he's very comfortable with handling so i 
have a video on this and one of the techniques   to begin with is simply lowering the 
puppy between your legs like this so that you don't have to manhandle them like i 
did earlier he really likes these treats i should   have used less exciting treats but that's okay 
there we go and then sitting down like this so if   at any time the puppy wants to leave and they've 
had enough you just let go and they come out   but the only way to get the treats is to do 
the restraint exercise so i'm going to lure   him through here just so viewers don't manhandle 
their puppy to begin with so i've got them sitting   like that and then i'm going to put my hand on 
his chest and feed him treats like this good Good.

And i can calmly pet him 
and this is going to help calm   your dog down and also help if your dog gets over 
excited out and about this is going to help calm   them down. Where if you didn't work on this and 
then you try to restrain your dog out and about,   what can happen is that they can get over excited 
by this restraint. Good good job you're so good.   I also like to use a calm marker working on this 
exercise along with other calm behaviors. Good.   So my calm marker is “good” like that. And you can 
see that he he's heard that a few times already   good and you can get eye contact from your puppy 
if you wanted as well. I don't particularly want   him looking at where the treats went. And you can 
see he's really comfortable with me restraining   him like this.

Then the thing that we're going 
to work on in this training session now that   we did a little warm up is putting something 
out of reach. So i put a treat there, good,   and i can mark him, good, before he 
struggles to try and get the treat,   good, and then i can release him to it. Okay go 
get it. And that is going to help say for example   your puppy or your adult dog wants to meet someone 
or do something and you prevent them from doing it   by holding them, picking them up or restraining 
them, if they're a larger dog. And that's going   to be so helpful because they won't feel it's an 
impulse control exercise so they won't feel like   “oh my gosh I’m being punished because i can't 
get to what i want to and this human being is   just depriving me of all the good stuff in life”. 
So basically you're teaching them that even though   they're being held like this it's in their best 
interest.

pexels photo 6568483

Awesome. And you're conditioning that   positive emotional response to being restrained 
rather than it being a frustrating thing,   it's a calming thing. Okay go get it good job. And 
i haven't worked on leave it with him so what was   happening there is i was reinforcing the absence 
of his choice to go toward the treat before he   thought to go to towards the treat. So as i put 
the treat down i fed him and then fed him at a   high rate of reinforcement and what that caused 
him to do was when i released him to the treat   he didn't actually want to go to get it. Which 
is great because what happens when you play games   like this, is that you reduce the dog's arousal 
and interest in going towards things that they're   excited about. Good. So for example if you were 
doing this game with other dogs or your dog wanted   to play with another puppy, you're going to reduce 
that excitement about getting to whatever it is.   Good job okay go get it.

See how he's just 
sitting there? Get it. There we go. Awesome. Okay   and we'll stop there and so that's enough for one 
training session. Thank you so much for watching!   If you'd like to support my work don't forget 
to like, comment and subscribe to my channel.   You can also become a supporting member of channel 
Kikopup by clicking the JOIN button see you later!.

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